TRAIGH NA BEIRGHE - LOCH BARABHAT IRON AGE FORT & RIOF BEACH,  FROM DISCOVERING UIG

Traigh na Beirghe - Beach of the Fort - is well named as it is the home of several archaeological sites.  At the Cnip end there is a Bronze-Age D-shaped crematorium, alongside a Viking burial site.  Up in the hills behind the beach is the Loch Barabhat Iron Age Fort site.  In the bog on the Riof machair is another Iron Age fort, possibly a broch.

To reach Loch Barabhat, park near the gate separating the common grazings of Cnip and Riof - the only gate across the road.  Ener the grazings on the Cnip side keeping to the left; skirt the marsh and walk along the far side until you come to a valley with a large mill-wheel at its bottom end.  Scramble up the valley passing three norse water-mills, and Loch Barabhat is at the top.  Though damp in places this walk is not too daunting and is of immense interest.

Much less taxing, however, is the walk along the length of the beach itself.  At the eastern end of the beach there is a gate on the right-hand side which leads to Traigh Theinish, a small, rough-shelled beach which is usually deserted.

CLIFF VILLAGE PEAT ROAD

The peat road at the back of Cliff village leads to the Dromannan.  This is a steep, winding road which has recently been improved for the use of local crofters whose peat banks are situated in this area.  It offers a very good walk with spectacular views of the village and the remains of the old "black-houses".  It is then possible to carry on by foot to Aird Uig, along the northern coastline, or to Eireastadh, by turning left and taking the route along the top of Gleann Bhaltos.

SGEALASGRO TO STROME

A walk along the coast from Scaliscro Lodge to the deserted village of Strome at the mouth of Loch an Stroim will prove of great interest.  In the immediate vicinity of the Lodge there are Highland Cattle and Hebridean sheep.  Further along the coast at Allt na Muilne there is a fairly well preserved Norse Mill.  Still further you will see evidence of a rock heronry and at least two seal colonies.    It is likely that the now deserted village of Strome was inhabited by shepherds and their families from the early years of the 18^th century when both Strome and neighbouring Drovernis belonged to a tacksman, James Chapman.  By the 18502 the townships were inhabited by only two shepherd families.  The old clachans at Strome are well preserved; there is also an ancient burial ground near the old village.  At Aird Orasay you may be able to catch sight of a herd of wild North Ronaldsay sheep.  The live mainly on seaware and appear to be thriving in this most remote promontory. 

CEANNREASORT (KINLOCHRESORT)

At Ceann Loch Roag the road leading to Morsgail Lodge branches off to the left.  Along this road an older track branches to the right - it is the start of a wonderful walk to Ceannreasort (Kinlochresort).

The old track cuts across a hillock at the barn - walk down by the kennels and then head out by the side of the loch.  The river crossing is marked on the map.

Some distance form the crossing, at Beannagail, are a number of Beehive Dwellings.  These constructions, which can be found throughout the islands, were devised in Neolithic times.  The lower layers of stone were laid vertically, while the upper courses were given an inward overlap meeting in beehive shape at the copestone.

Just beyond the sheilings, cross the river at the makeshift bridge.  Thereafter follow the path and way-stones which have been placed at intervals to avoid boggy land and to lead the walker to Ceannreasort and the deserted villages of Luachair and Cro-Leatha.

Callum an ‘ic Asgaill, a well known local figure who lived at Luachair all his life, got the BEM for his thrice weekly trip to Morsgail and back with mails for these villages and Aird Bheag and Tamnabhagh (Hamnaway).  Duncan MacDonald of Giosla also received the BEM for delivering the mail to these villages.  All of the villages have become uninhabited only since the 1960s.

ASCENT OF MEALISVAL, UIG

Start and Parking: Peat Road next to ex-army blockhouse in Breanish Village NA 993263

Start along the peat track due east for 3km towards the Glen, between Snodribble and Mealisval to approximately 025260.  Turn north and ascend Mealisval to the cairn at 574m. Continue north along the ridge overlooking Loch Raonasgail to Mula Mac Sgiathain.  Descend due west back to start on a bearing of 240'. This is a high level ascent  and moderate descent.  There are great views to St Kilda on a clear day.

Time: 6 hours (5miles/ 8km)

BREANISH TO RED RIVER VIA GLEN OF ROCKS, UIG

Start and Parking: Breanish, there is a small lay-by before bridge over Breanish River (roughly NA 991 257 GB)

From start bearing of 82' to 150' contour at base of Mealisval approx 015262, contour north round Mealisval, keep same height till a gully at 018280, descend into Glen of Rocks following sheep track bearing 80' . Contouring round Brennaval to the track then due north to B8011. Low Level / moderate Ascents and Descents.  Keep to the sheep tracks in the Glenn of Rocks, there are some deep holes.

Time: 6 hours (5.6 miles / 9km)

GREAT BERNERA WALK, BERNERA

By Car: Parking is available at the start of the walk at Bernera Community Centre, Breaclete. There is no space for car parking further along the route at Valasay.

From Bernera Community Centre, follow the Hacklete road for 1.25km (0.75 mile), until the turn-off to Valasay on the right. Continue to the end of the Valasay road, over the footbridge crossing Tòb Bhalasaigh, and then, past the first cottage, turn right through three gates.

Follow the way markers along the west coast of the island to an old track which will lead you towards the village of Tobson. Turn left when you reach the road at Tobson, then left again, and then follow the waymarkers up Beinn an Toib, enjoying spectacular views over Loch Roag and the islands to the west. The route continues through a gate in the stone wall, and down through the beautiful valley and deserted village of Bostadh, to one of Lewis' loveliest beaches. The remains of a late Iron Age village can also be seen here and a reconstructed Iron Age house.

Continue to the single track tarmac road at Bostadh and follow its winding course for 4.5 km along the rocky shore and through croftland and moorland and along the delightful banks of Loch na Muilne. At the crossroads to Tobson, pause to consider the memorial to the land raiders, before returning to the Community Centre at Breacleit.

Time: 4.5 hours (12km / 7.5 miles)

GIOSLA DAM AND LOCH COIRGABHAT, UIG

NB 122 262

As you approach Giosla from Stornoway on the B8011 you will notice on your right a well-kept piece of land enclosed by a stone dyke.  This is part of the old Giosla Farm.  On your left is an impressive display of rhododendron bushes, a welcome patch of colour.  A sign directs you to the Woodcraft shop, which is well worth a visit.

Cross the bridge and park your car on rough ground to your right.  Cross the road and go through a gate on a tarred track: it leads to the Hydro-electric dam on Loch Coirgabhat.  This is a short, easy and extremely pleasant walk.  Before the large pipes were laid for the Hydro-electric scheme, the Giosla river flowed swiftly down this valley to the sea.

Time: about 30 minutes - 1 hour

LOCH GRUNABHAT, UIG

NB10 26

The more energetic might like to walk further, across the dam and along the Giosla river to Loch Grunabhat.  It is a good brown trout loch.

BOTHAN MILEABHAT - BEEHIVE DWELLING, UIG

NB088 280

Approaching from Stornoway on the B8011 pass the old school / café at Lochcroistean on your right, then the Geisiadar road end.  On your left, Abhainn a' Ghlinne Ruadh, a narrow, shallow river, flows parallel to the road.  Look for a wooden footbridge spanning it.  Park your car opposite; off the road on the right hand side.

Be sure to wear sturdy footwear as the ground is rough and wet in places.  From the road you might be able to see a small cairn on the skyline.  This is to direct you and is one of many stones set up at intervals to mark out a safe and suitable route for you to follow.  When you reach one of these stones look out for the next one; it will be visible.  They were originally placed there, circa 1920, by two ladies from Geisiadar, Mairi and Anna, to guide younger girls safely to the shielings.

Cross the bridge and walk ahead.  You will soon see the first stone.  The indicated route, which is between two hills, rises gradually.  Do not be tempted to walk lower down where the ground is greener and flatter.  It is also boggy and treacherous.

Taking your bearings from the markers you will find this is a pleasant walk, sometimes over large flat rock slabs and sometimes over broken peat bogs.  Looking back, you will be surprised to find yourself so high above the road.  When you approach Loch a'Phealuir Mor bear slightly left.  It is actually two lochs with a narrow isthmus between them where you will cross over easily on a path of slabs.

Look for the next marker and follow the sheep track, over by the hill, Orchleit.  Do not climb it, but follow the track at its base and round the gravely end of Loch Grunabhat.  From there you will veer right and away from the loch along a well-worn sheep track which is clearly visible.  Keep to this path and be guided by the marker stones which will lead you to a green mossy patch.  You will not be aware of it until you are close beside it.  On it is an intact "both" or beehive dwelling.  Marvel at the endurance of this ancient architecture and treat it with respect.  Rest awhile and return by the same route following the markers back to the road.

Be especially careful if there is any sign of mist.

Time: 4 to 6 hours

ASCENT OF SUAINEABHAL, UIG - from Cairisiader

Suainebhal at 429 metres dominates the skyline in the central are of Uig.  A walk to its summit is stimulating and challenging.  Daunting even, if you are not fit.  The easiest approach is from Cairisiadar.

On the B8011 pass through the village of Cairisiader to the north end.  Cross the bridge.  A narrow road branches off to the left past two small cottages.  You can drive along this road which was built by the local crofters to gain access to their peats.  When the road forks park your car and start walking along the branch to the left.  Suaineabhal is ahead.

Keeping it always in view, start climbing.  Take a sensible route to the centre of the gap in the rocks.  The slope is grassy and heathery right to the top, but there are false summits to tantalize you on the way.  Keep to the left side of the hill till you are near the top when you turn right to reach the cairn at the summit.  On a clear day there is a wonderful view of Uig, Flannan Isles, St Kilda and of the west coast of Lewis, and to the other side up the west coast of Harris.

Rest at the top to enjoy the scenery and descend by the same route.  It can be cool, even cold and windy at the top, so be prepared.  Sensible footwear, preferably boots, is essential for all hill walks.

Time: Allow 2 to 4 hours

ASCENT OF SUAINEABHAL, UIG - alternative route from Ardroil

Start and Parking: NB 063 310 GB (before you reach the first house in Eadar Dha Fhadhail, notice a tarred side-road to your left.  Drive as far as the weir and the pump-house. 

Cross weir and walk east for 500m then northeast towards terrace at 072315. Approach summit on bearing of 140'. Return to start either by retracing the approach or descend to glen between Suainaval and Sron n Gaoith and Orchleit at 082298 then on a bearing of 270' to the edge of Loch Suainaval past ruined Beehive Dwellings take the sheep track north along cliffs to weir, this ‘sheep' track involves scrambling with steep drops to the loch. Steep Ascent and Descent, High Level, some scramble on return.  Watch out for Golden Eagles, pheasant, grouse and buzzards

Time: 6 hours (5miles/ 8km)

THE UIG HILLS - FROM DISCOVERING UIG 

M. S. Campbell who wrote, "The Fauna of Uig" in the summer of 1938 provides a perfect description of the hills of West Uig; since we cannot improve upon it, we have taken the liberty of quoting it in full:

"West of Little Loch Road the country changes, becoming more and more mountainous as it approaches the granite-gneiss massif of the Uig hils.  The main hills are in two chains running almost north and south, separated in their northern part by a deep steep-sided valley down which Abhainn Raonasgail flows in to Loch Raonasgail lying at its northern end.

"East of the valley lie - from North to South - Tarain (1347'), Tahabhal (1688'), Teinnasabhal (16267') and Tamanasbhal (1530') and possibly to this chain should be added Suaineabhal (1404') which lies to the Northeast of Tarain, but separated from it by another deep valley in which lies Loch Suainaval, more than two miles long and probably, judging from the lie of the land, deep.

"On the west of the Raonasgail valley, at the northern end, are the summits of Mealasbhal (1885'), with the north facing almost bare great precipices of Mula Mac Sgiathain separated by a col from Cracabhal (1682') and North Liabhal which is opposite the rocky col separating Raonasgail valley from the corresponding valley for the south flowing Abhainn Cheann Chuisil.

"The southern valley is bounded on the east by the easier slopes of Tamanasval and on the west by the steep rocks of South Liabhal.  To the south west lies Griomabhal with steep rocks on its northern face which fall in to Gleann Thealasdail.  The stream in this glen rises to just above 1000' among steep boulder scree below a rocky col and runs in to the Dubh Loch".

Campbell names a good many hills; there are others, but discover them for yourselves

Traditionally, township cattle were taken to summer grazings out in the Uig hills.  Right up to the Second World War, each of the villages had shieilings where the women and young girls tended the cattle.  They left the villages with the cattle towards the end of June and lived in the simple stone dwellings for six weeks.

"When the shieling has been reached and the burdens laid down, the huts are repaired, fires kindled and food prepared.  The people bring forward every man's stock separately, then the cattle are turned out to graze.  The feast that follows is simple.  They say grace, and every head is uncovered and every knee bowed, as they dedicated themselves and their flocks to Christ," wrote Carmicheal in Carmina Gadelica.

The women lived mainly on fish - salmon and trout caught in the rivers and lochs that lie between Uig and Harris.  Every fortnight the village men brought provisions by boat - if the shieling was accessible by sea - and returned to the villages with milk, butter and crowdie.

UIG'S TRADITIONAL GRAZINGS - THE SHIELINGS - FROM DISCOVERING UIG

The Breanais and Islibhig shielings were at Cleit Fhidigidh (065 225).  There are also beehive dwellings - very early shielings - at Fhidigidh.  Many routes can be followed out in to the Uig hills and generations of Breanais people headed out to the hill grazings just south of the Breanais River.  They skirted the foothills of Tairebhal (003 252), bore south of Loch na Clibhe (023 253) and climbed up Cracabhal (035 255) before descending in to Bealach Raonasgail.

They then crossed over to Fhidigidh by taking a direct easterly course over Coire Diobadail and Mula Chaolartan (065 245) and descending southwards towards the shielings - a remarkable trek to have made with animals and supplies.  The people of Ard uig, Cradhlastadh and Bhaltos also had their sheilings around the same area.  There are also beehive dwellings at Mula Chaolartan, which are relatively well preserved.

For a more direct route to Ceann Chuisil (038 213), Tamanabhaigh (051 203) and Aird Bheag (034 196) head inland from Mol Linnes just past the Mealastadh road-end, bear south of Mealasbhal and head east to the mouth of Gleann Thealasdail, ascend the western slopes of Griomabhal (005 222), avoiding its northern face which is very steep and rocky, descend in to Bealach Raonasgail alongside the Allt Ruadh which flows in to Abhainn Cheann Chuisil.  There are stones placed at regular intervals to mark this pathway. 

The stone markers were laid by Manus MacLennan, one of the inhabitants of Aird Bheag which lies along the coast from Tamnabhaigh and Ceann Chuisil.  The small settlement became a crofting township after the First World War.  As last as 1953 "came in" from this most remote settlement to Carnais.  To travel to Breanais the people of Aird Bheag and Tamanabhaigh usually crossed to Ceann Chuisil by boat and continued the journey on foot.

Alternatively, if they wanted to go to Stornoway, they took an almost direct route to Ceannresort, and then on to Morsgail to join the main road.  The trip to Ceannreasort was undertaken three times a week by Iain Macdonald, the last resident crofter in Aird Bheag, to collect the mails.  Anyone who attempts any of these walks will understand the extraordinary fortitude of crofters who eked a living in such remote corners, until recent times.

More walks on Bernera to follow.